Gocek bay

We had a lovely sail down from Ekincik to Gocek bay on Sunday, until the wind ran out.

The wind was cold - not surprising because there was still snow on the mountains behind Gocek.

We motored through the passage inside Domuz Ad

and tied up in Kapi Creek, which was very beautiful, with a fixed price menu restaurant, but the bay soon filled up with boats.

In the afternoon we walked up the hill and looked down on Ragged Bay

Then over the other side to see the ruined houses, now used as a cow shed, having our first swim of the year (except for Simon's dive at Lakki to recover things he had dropped overboard).

On Monday we motored around the bay, checking out the little coves. It is all very beautiful, but very crowded, even in May, especially where there is a quay by a restaurant to tie on to. We motored up to Tomb Bay, where we anchored off the beach

and Simon climbed up to the tombs

We went back to Seagull Bay, which we had decided was the nicest place to anchor, but it was deep and the bottom was smooth rock so the anchor would not hold.

So we went on to Pillared bay, which was very peaceful

and Lin swam.

We woke early this morning to the dawn chorus and set of to motor to Kalkan (no wind). We decided that Gocek Bay is very beautiful, but too crowded. and we miss seeing a bit of village life which is one of the pleasures of sailing in Greece - in Turkey there are either big cities and holiday complexes, or little bays with at most a restaurant, all of which are much the same. Heikell promises that Kalkan has some 'sophisticated restaurants'. We shall see.

Turkish waters

On Tuesday we motored round to Buzburun and failed to find the market before it closed. Had lunch at Osman's on the quay, did some shopping and pottered around.

On Wednesday we motor sailed round the corner to Bozuk Buku, ancient Loryma, where we tied up at Ali Baba's restaurant, as usual alongside a boatload of Russians 

and climbed up to the magnificent citadel, between showers and thunderstorms.

We left Loryma on Thursday morning and popped in to Serce

to do a reportedly beautiful walk. We had a short walk but it was not very exciting and the weather was foul, 

so we went on to Marmaris and anchored off the town. It was pouring with rain and the streets were full of sad English tourists in bikinis with plastic macs over, and sodden day trippers coming off their trip boats.

It was not the best weather to have a drink on deck in the evening, but we made the best of it

and got a lot of shopping done.

From Marmaris we motor-sailed down to Ekincik on Friday, where we tied up at My Marina. Lin's back is still painful, so she does all the driving, becoming an ace at going stern-to (and alongside), while Simon does all the heavy crew work. 

My Marina has a very flashy pontoon with tastefully constructed ruins and an expensive restaurant, at which one had to eat to stay free on the quay (not quite free - 20 lira a day for electricity and 15 for water). The food was very ordinary, but excellent service and beautifully presented, which I guess is what the nobs want. And a fantastic view.

Just as we came in to My Marina a Grand Soleil 50 came sweeping in and passed us onto the quay - it was Martin and Sandra with Catherine and Stuart, whom we had not expected to meet because they had been going direct to Loryma.

 On Saturday we all took a half-day boat trip

up to Dalyan and the ruins of ancient Caunus, stopping on the way at a cave

and by a boat where a man attracted turtles

with a blue crab on his line.

After visiting the ruins at Caunus, we had lunch at a riverside restaurant in Dalyan (no pictures because the battery ran out). Martin and co left when we got back to My Marina

while we stayed another night. Pasta with pesto rather than the expensive restaurant for dinner!

This morning (Sunday) we left for Gocek bay.

Lazy days

We spent two nights in Keci Buku

and took the dinghy round to the island in the bay

Where we climbed up to the castle ruins.

Lin just came to the gate

Simon climbed to the top to take some pictures

while Lin waited by the dinghy.

This morning we came to Paradise - a little restaurant in the bay of Kacabahce, where we will stay tonight. Just two other (Dutch) boats here and it is very peaceful - just the sound of water lapping, birds singing and the lad in the restaurant playing his clarinet (well).

At last some sun

The weather has changed with the north wind - still a cold wind, but at least we have clear skies and warm sun - still not hot enough for swimming yet.

We got to Datca on Thursday and went onto the quay, though charter boats (all Russians) were being thrown off because the Eastern Mediterranean Yacht Rally was coming in the evening.
Dave and Kath arrived in the lead boat, Mashona, around tea time and the others came in later in the afternoon. Dave and Kath were very welcoming and the atmosphere was great - we have booked up for the rally next year (from Istanbul to Port Said) and are really looking forward to it.

We spent two nights in Datca, stocked up at the supermarket and Simon walked around the bay to the few remains at the original site of Knidos (they moved the city to the end of the peninsular around 355BC), now surrounded by apartment blocks.

Friday was a windy night and we left early on Saturday morning. As Simon hoisted the mainsail, the mast gate popped out and the sail took off from the mast, in 15 knots of wind. A struggle between Simon and the sail followed, with Simon winning thanks to some neat steering by Lin at the wheel. So we sailed across to Keci Buku (Orhaniye) with just the genoa, the main lashed to the boom to keep it in order, and more repairs for Simon as soon as we arrived.
The wind was cold but the sun was out, so Lin sunbathed on the passage in her arctic sailing outfit.

We got to Keci Buku at lunchtime and tied up to a brand new restaurant pontoon. They told us that we could stay for free, including water and electricity, if we ate in their restaurant, but the restaurant would not open until tomorrow. Or maybe today. So we decided to stay two days in the beautiful bay, which would be idyllic if it were not already quite crowded, with a big marina to the north and laid up charter boats on the pontoons.

Ancient remains

We motored down to Cockertme on Tuesday - wind on the nose and Lin's back not up to beating. Cockertme was very peaceful - just a couple of yachts and a couple of gulets anchored off. We went on the quay of the Mary Rose restaurant, which they were just finishing building (the quay, not the restaurant!), and good lunch and dinner there.

On Wednesday we had a fast sail back down the gulf (beam reach with force 4-5 until we got near the point, when the wind went round), to reach Knidos at lunchtime. This is a wonderful archaeological site of ancient Knidos, with the ruins among meadows with spring flowers. Just one other boat on the jetty, until four boatloads of Russians from Snezhinsk nuclear research centre arrived in the evening, and good, though rather expensive, dinner in the restaurant. Simon tried to find the ancient acropolis, but got to the top of the ridge without finding it, but fantastic views.

Mia Hara on the right

The small theatre

View over the harbour from the ridge

View from the other side of the ridge

Meadow of poppies on old harbour walls

Lin on old city walls - fishermen behind

Entrance to ancient trireme harbour

Ancient sundial

We left Knidos after breakfast for Datca, where we can do some shopping and sit out the strong winds forecast for Friday.

More cock-ups!

We came to Bodrum on Sunday, cold, windy and a bit of rain, and anchored under the castle.

us on the left

It was beautifully sheltered when we arrived, but then the wind swung round and got up to 27 knots, but the anchor was well dug in and we put out 60 metres of chain. Once settled in we went ashore and visited the castle, which contains the museum of underwater archaeology. We didn't want to leave the boat as the wind got up, so we ate aboard and had a bumpy night.
Next morning Simon walked up to the pre-Hellenic theatre (Lin's back still does not let her walk too far)

We had expected Bodrum to have good chandlers, but they were pretty hopeless. We managed to get a fancy boathook to replace the one that Simon had allowed to slip overboard at Turgutreis, and got ourselves a Turkish Sim and data card - both rather expensive and a long bureaucratic palaver, further delayed because Turkcell's internet connection was down - not a very good advert! Simon wanted to go for the set lunch in a highly recommended Spanish restaurant, but Lin wanted to get off. So off we went, but the fanbelts started slipping. We stopped the engine and drifted while Simon checked the fanbelts, but they seemed tight enough, so we headed back to Bodrum and changed the fanbelts, so Simon got his very good Spanish dinner. And for once it was a warm sunny day! However, when he changed the fanbelts Simon forgot to open the seacock that lets in the cooling water, so next morning we stripped the impeller in the raw water pump and had to change the impeller. Eventually we got off at 9.30, heading for Cockertme. Lots of cloud, a little rain and no wind to start with, then on the nose, so we are driving, and so far all seems well!
Touch wood.