Just the two of us

Simon's treatment went well and he got back to Leros on the ferry at 5am on Thursday morning 30th August to jump into bed with a sleeping Lin, who had a very windy time in Leros. We pottered around for a couple of days, cleaning and tidying, and on Saturday had a windy beat up to Arki (we cheated and motor sailed the last half as the wind got up to 25 knots. On passage the passarel disintegrated, so we had no way to get ashore in Arki, so we anchored in the bay just south of the port - crystal clear water and very sheltered. We stayed there two nights, mending the passarel and swimming, then moved to the harbour for a couple of days more, having some excellent meals at Nikolas's taverna before saying good bye to everyone. On Wedensday 5th September we set off at dawn to sail the fifty miles to Dhonoussa, just East of Naxos. There was a good wind till we got to the southern tip of Patmos, then the wind died for a couple of hours motoring. Anticipating stronger and more westerly winds we worked our way north, which was lucky because when the wind came back there was a lot of west in it and we could only just lay Dhonoussa. The wind increased steadily as we close reached, often at over 8 knots, with two reefs and a patch of genoa. The waves also got bigger and bigger, well over two metres, so the boat got a good wash down. We had planned to go to the anchorage in the north west of Dhonoussa, that Derek had recommended to us, but we could not lay it as the wind increased and went further west, so we decided to head for Ormos Dhendro in the south of the island. As we reached the island the gusts increased to 35 knots and Simon had to work hard on the wheel to keep us on course. The anchorage did not look promising from offshore - a little bay with spray flying everywhere, but things calmed down as we motored in and we anchored off the beach, the only yacht here (or on the whole island), with 55 metres of chain. The beach had a lot of little tents and bivouaks. Simon swam around to check the anchor and swinging room and went ashore to check out the beach. It was clearly a middle-aged hippy beach, with half the people (including many Greeks) naked and a lively bar/taverna at the back.

Even in the bay the wind was 25 knots, but the anchor was well dug in so we were confident we would be OK, but still Simon slept on deck and set the anchor alarm just in case.

The forecast was for calmer weather on Thursday, but then gale force winds from Friday lunchtime, so we decided to find a more sheltered anchorage and headed for Mirsini on Skhinousa, which we found almost empty - just two Greek yachts, so we found a comfortable place on the quay.

We had a delicious lunch at Mersini taverna behind the beach, then relaxed after two days heavy sailing.

On Friday morning we walked up to the hora to do some shopping, passing an emaciated donkey

and the financial district.

The hora is pretty nondescript, having been developed for tourists who fill the island in high season, but who were now conspicuous by their absence, but there were spectacular views to the many beaches around the island.

On Saturday, after shopping, putting extra lines on the boat, swimming, lunch and a siesta, the day flashed by, the wind still very strong and no yachts coming or going.

On Sunday we walked over the hill to the north, to look at the sea state, and walked down to a little chapel on the headland.

 

We could see that the wind was still blowing hard and the forecast is to keep blowing through Monday, so we decided to stay here until Tuesday and then head up to Naxos to explore the island. The local ferries have been cancelled for the last two days. On Saturday a stranded Greek couple were hoping to find a yacht to take them to Naxos and on Sunday a Swimtrek group were brought over from Naxos  a day late crammed onto a yacht. We wouldn't fancy inter-island swimming in these seas, but presumably they will find some sheltered passages.

 

We are very happy to be storm bound here. It is very peaceful on the little quay with friendly Greek and Italian neighbours, sandy beaches and lovely swimming in very clear water, an excellent taverna and reasonable shopping in the hora.