On Thursday morning we left Agathonisi early and had a quiet motorsail to Arkhangeli, a little island north of Leros with very sheltered anchorages. Our favourite little bay was taken, so we went in the larger bay.
intending to sail to Amorgos, but it was a close reach in a force 3-4 so we decided that it would be more comfortable to sail on a beam reach to Astipalea, keeping the cruising chute up all the way.
a couple of dolphins frolicked under the bow.
We have met dolphins a few times this summer, but none of them have wanted to play.
In Astipalea we moored on the new quay
and met up with Yanni and Bettina, alongside whom we had been moored in Pothia. They had just got back to Astipalea having got their tripper boat certified by the Port Police in Kalymnos.
On Saturday we walked up past the windmills
to the castle, through the arched entrance.
This was a Venetian castle, built on the site of the ancient acropolis, three sides of which were made up of conjoined fortified houses. According to our guide book 3,000 people once lived inside the castle (against a present day population of the whole island of only 1100), though we suspect that this includes those who lived in the chora, outside the castle walls.
The views in all directions were magnificent.
When we got back we rented a four-wheel drive jeep for the day to drive all over the island, mostly on unmade roads.
We had an excellent lunch at Asti Fagi, on the beach at Skhoinontas, the owner/chef of which had been trained in Bristol.
After lunch we drove up to Vathi in the north, where Lin and Simon had anchored fifteen years ago, stopped off for a swim on a deserted beach
till we eventually got to the tiny monastery,
in its spectacular setting in a ravine, with views across to Santorini
with wild rhododendrons (or the like) growing down the slope
We got back in time for showers before we filled up with water, and had bacon and eggs for dinner.
On Sunday morning we set off for a tour of the highlights of Astipalea by sea.
Yanni had recommended that we visit the two islands of Kutzomiti and Kunupia, where he had laid moorings just of the beach which we were welcome to use. Kutzomiti is separated from the neighbouring island by a narrow rocky channel.
Kunupia is one island, with a sand bar joining its two halves in the middle.
On the way back we found ourselves converging with a fisherman laying his nets
We finally anchored in Skhoinontas (third time lucky - the sand is very fine so the anchor just ploughed a furrow the first two times),
so that we could go back to Asti fagia for dinner,
before setting off for Nissiros early on Monday morning.
Aghios Ioannis - definitely the place where Simon and I tried to buy the shack! Your pictures brought it all back - not changed at all! Suzi
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