To sea at last!

We have had a frantic three weeks in the yard since Lin arrived, so no time to update the blog. I am afraid this is a rather boring account of the work on the boat.

Andrew's last week was spent cleaning and polishing the hull until it was like a mirror, with breaks for swims in the pool and playing with his iphone in the library, with its internet connection. The engine came out on the Tuesday, with a lot of grunting, but the Turkish workers insisted that Turkish workers were strong and it came out cleanly. We couldn't get the fuel tank out though because the steering cables were in the way and we couldn't ask the crane to wait, so we finished cutting the tank in half, removed the steering cables and got it out without any trouble. 

On Wednesday Andrew and I went up to Sanai, the industrial district, to see the liferaft being tested. We got lost on the way to Sanai because of all the road construction. After wandering through the lanes we asked some construction workers working on a house the way to get there. One guy in a Manchester United shirt came over - it turned out that he had lived in Manchester for a few years - and phoned the liferaft company to find out where they were. He began to give us instruction s, but then decided it would be easier for him to drive us there, which he did. When we arrived, the liferaft guy put the liferaft on a table, pulled the cord and it exploded into life - it was enormous! An eight-man liferaft that looked as though it had room for 12. It had last been serviced in 2000 and the flares expired in 2001, but the liferaft man said it was an excellent liferaft in good condition so we gave the go-ahead for the service, and for repairs to the dinghy. They also sold us a second-hand canister for 22 euros in place of the grotty bag that it had been in.

Once the engine was out Simon got down to cleaning the engine room, which was thick with oil and grease, getting out the grimy greasy, oily old insulation and trying to track down all the wires and cables, many of which went nowhere and did nothing. Once he had removed the dud cables and identified the rest he tagged them so that we can make sure that the correct cables are attached to the new engine and will know what is what in future.

The old engine in the filthy engine room

On Thursday evening we went into Marmaris for Andrew and Sue and Steve's last evening. I had checked out a highly recommended Turkish restaurant and led everyone for miles through the backstreets only to find that it had not yet opened. Andrew took over and led us straight to the Taj Mahal for another Indian - it turned out that he knew the streets because he had sneaked off to get a tattoo done around there. We had a good meal and got a taxi back to the marina as we had missed the last dolmus.

Andrew left on Friday, after a lot of confusion over his transfer. A2b emailed on Wednesday to say that they would not pick up at the marina but we could have a taxi for some ridiculous price. The company handling it emailed half an hour later to say they would pick up at 10.45. I emailed them back to confirm that they would pick up from the marina and they emailed back to say no, they would pick up at Macdonald's in Marmaris, so Andrew got the dolmus to Marmaris, had breakfast in Macdonald's and got picked up on time.

Simon spent the weekend finishing cleaning out the engine compartment and cleaning and tidying before Lin arrived.

Lin arrived on her birthday, 22nd April, after a comfortable taxi transfer from Dalaman to beautiful sunny weather. Over the next two weeks we had clear blue skies and it got increasingly hot - too hot for working on the boat by the end of the two weeks. We had a birthday dinner in the marina restaurant that evening and got straight down to work the next day.

On Tuesday 23^rd the gantry people came to install the new gantry, which took the next two days. They worked carefully and professionally and the new gantry is strong and even quite elegant, with a second set of davits, a crane for the outboard, four solar panels, fittings to pull up the passarelle, four sets of cleats and holders for boat hooks and fishing rods.

The new gantry

On Thursday 25^th Erhan from Marlin came to install the new insulation in the engine room. He worked slowly and carefully over the next couple of days to do a really good job, giving us a clean engine compartment ready for the new engine. 

A clean engine room with new insulation

On Friday 26^th the new fuel tank and holding tank arrived. We managed to get the fuel tank through the engine room and into place under our bed, but we did not want to install it until the engine was in, because the exhaust runs under the tank. We also got a carpenter to fix the wall panels in our bedroom, which had been removed to install the gantry.

The liferaft and dinghy came back at the end of the week, but the liferaft canister burst open and they had to take it back and fit new straps. Once we had the liferaft the gantry people could make a cradle for it to fit on the gantry, which they did at the beginning of the following week.

On Sunday 28^th there was a boat jumble sale at the marina. It was scheduled to start at 9.30, but when Simon got there at 9.15 almost all the tables had gone. The punters were like locusts. Simon had taken two big bags, mostly of junk that we were giving away for nothing. People were grabbing stuff from the bags even before I could get them out and someone nicked the Adverc alternator regulator that costs £200 new, though they left the manual. In the end we sold or gave away everything we had come with, clearing about 50 euros for £500 worth of stuff. At the sale and barbecue we met Scott and Julie, who we had last seen at Aktio about 5 years ago.

On Monday 29^th people came to fix our leaking forehatch and replace our crazed and slightly leaking side windows. They did a very clean job on the side windows, with the new windows making the saloon much lighter than it was.

Tuesday (30th April) was the big day, when the new engine was craned in, 

but nothing more happened immediately. Over the next week people were coming and going, measuring up this and that and occasionally attaching bits and pieces, but the actual installation had to wait until the new bearers had been made, to make sure that the engine was lined up exactly right. On Thursday someone came to fit the new exhaust, which is complicated because it is a three-inch exhaust replacing a two-inch exhaust so fitting it required quite a lot of manouvering and cutting of wider holes. It also turned out when they took out the prop shaft to fit the new coupling that it was non-standard, so we had to have a new prop shaft made.

On Friday May 3rd the surveyor came to do the first part of our insurance survey, which was all fine, and the hatch man came back with the new fore hatch, but when we tested it over the weekend it still leaked, so he came back on Monday and rebedded it, so we now have no leaks (touch a lot of wood). He also supplied and fitted a new mirror for our heads (bathroom). On Saturday 4th May the new prop shaft went in and it fitted very smoothly.

On Sunday 5^th Simon went up the mast to try to fit the new masthead light and to drill out the old radar reflector brackets, which threatened to tear the genoa. He could not shift the screws on the masthead light and blunted two drill bits trying to drill out the brackets, so he decided to get someone in to do it. On Monday morning Mustafa from M2 Rigging came to give us a quote and immediately said that our rigging screws were cracked and the standing rigging was dangerous and should be replaced immediately, which he estimated would only cost 5000 euros. We called Jess, our surveyor, who immediately came to give an unbiased opinion and he reckoned that the rigging screws, and so all the rigging, should be replaced. Fortunately it can be done with the boat in the water while we are in England.

On Monday 6^th Simon checked the sea cocks and found that both of the toilet outlet seacocks had seized.  Jess recommended Herman of Germany Yachting Services and he came immediately, freed one seacock and replaced the other. 

Her first two weeks had been very frustrating for Lin because, with work going on all over the boat and tools and parts all over the place she could not get on with her cleaning and sorting out – she could not even unpack her bag. However, it was not too disastrous because the weather was beautiful so she could swim and sit by the pool and read.

We were scheduled to launch on Wednesday May 8th, but we did not want to launch without the engine installation being completed, so we put it off till Thursday. Meanwhile Simon wired up the new solar panels and MPPT regulator while they continued to work on the engine. There was a problem getting the harness for the panel through the narrow channel, so they had to take the ceiling down to make a new hole. Launch time came and the electrician was still working on the installation of the panel. The tractor arrived and he finished off the panel while we were towed to the launching place.

Lin went back to fetch the bike

We were still not sure that we would actually launch – there was so little room in the marina that some people had waited two or three days beyond their launch date and some Australians waiting beside us had been waiting for eight days. However, our engineer spoke to the lift operators and asked them to launch us next so we could get the engine going. 

The engine started with the first touch of the button and we motored round to the outside pontoon – not ideal, but the weather was calm so it was OK.

There was still the high pressure pump for the watermaker to fit and some wiring to complete, which they did over the next few days. They also gave us fantastic LED strip lighting for the engine room.

Simon rigged up the new gantry, now with the liferaft cradle.

The new bimini came on Sunday, but they still had to make a template for the side pieces and had put the leather patches in the wrong place, so we did not get it until Monday evening.

Simon went in to Marmaris on Tuesday 14^th morning to buy some plumbing bits and pieces for the watermaker and we had our last lunch in the Marina restaurant – we are such creatures of habit that the waiter knew what we wanted without our having to order – two beers, one fish soup and two cheeseburgers, all of which are excellent. After lunch Lin collected the laundry and we could leave.

We set off at 2.30 and motored over to Netsel marina in Marmaris to fill up with diesel (in the rain, so we put an umbrella over the filler to keep the water out. We have to try to get 50 hours of motoring in so they can check the engine while we are at home. After getting fuel, we drove round to Ecincik, where we arrived about 7 pm and anchored for the night.

On Wednesday 15^th we motored to Fethiye. On the way our heads (toilet) jammed and we could not pump out. Simon spent most of the journey on his knees, dismantling the loo and replacing all the serviceable parts, but could not find any blockage in the accessible places. We arrived in Fethiye and  checked in to the marina soon after lunch. We met up with John and Elsa, also on a Moody 422, whom we had last met in the Ionian five years ago. We passed on to them all the spares for our old engine.  They have a very good deal, working as flotilla leaders for a local charter company they get all their marina fees paid and their diesel and all the work that needs to be done on the boat is paid for too. They seem to enjoy leading flotillas around the same routes week in and week out.

New rich Turks dodge tax by registering their boats in Delaware. But a lot of them cannot spell their port of registry.

One motor boat was registered closer to home (sorry lost the Lea!)

On Thursday morning we walked around Fethiye and went up to the rock tombs in the cliffs above the town.

with a good view over Fethiye.

On the path we disturbed a tortoise.

On the way down we passed the Lycian cemetery, tombs being all that remain of the ancient city.

One corpse made its mark by parking in the middle of the road.

We went on to the wonderful fruit and fish markets to stock up. 

John and Elsa came to look round our boat to get ideas and we looked round theirs, which gave us more envy than inspiration because John is a craftsman who has done things that we could never do.

After lunch we motored over to Pilloried Bay, to pick up a mooring. We were here exactly two years ago to the day, but then there were only a couple of boats 

Pilloried Cove May 2011

while today it is packed – with only a couple of free moorings which filled soon after we arrived.

 Simon went swimming to try to clear the toilet from outside, with a Dynarod pipe cleaner. He bashed away for ages and loads of limescale came out, but still the loo was blocked so he will have to have another go tomorrow. 
This morning, Friday 17th, we set off at 7.30 to motor back across Marmaris Bay to Bozuk Buku, a seven-hour drive.

All alone

Andrew went home today (Friday) and Sue and Steve sailed off for Symi so I am left alone! Andrew  and I had a busy week, Andrew cleaning and polishing the hull so that it gleams like it never has since Paul and  Cathy owned Mia Hara. I have been chasing up quotes for all the work that has to be done. On Wednesday we went in to Marmaris to see them test our liferaft, which has not been serviced for twelve years (they tell you that you should service it, at great expense, every year). I pulled the string and it blew up perfectly - and turned out to be enormous, an eight-seater. The flares, which expired in 1999, needed replacing as did the ebattery for the emergency light, but otherwise it just needed the gas cylinder refilling. On the way there we got lost (mainly because of the massive road works) and asked a construction worker the way. He popped out his iphone and checked the map, then phoned the company to check how to get there and, when the instructions proved a bit complicated he decided to drive us there.It turned out that he had lived in Manchester for a while. To get back, we scrambled through the road works. Yesterday evening we went in to town to eat with Sue and Steve for Andrew's (and their) last night. I had checked out a recommended Turkish restaurant, which turned out to be closed, so we went back to the Taj Mahal, the Indian restaurant where we had been earlier in the week. The owner, from Bradford, turned out to have lived previously in Foleshill in Coventry.
Thursday was the big day, with the old engine and fuel tank coming out. The engine came out fine, but the fuel tank got stuck on the steering cables. Rather than ask the crane to wait an hour or two while we freed the cables we decided to finish cutting it in half to get it out, but even then we still had to free the cables before we could shift it. I now have to clean the engine room, which is incredibly filthy with oil and grease. But first I had to get rid of the diesel smells in our bedroom from the leaking fuel tank by giving it all a very thorough clean with boiling water and washing up liquid, then degreaser, then bilge cleaner, then a heavy hose through. Tomorrow it is into the engine room up to my elbows in muck and stripping our all the old oily insulation ready to replace it.
Today it has rained all day. Fortunately Andrew remembered to put a couple of pans to catch the drips in the forepeak. Next week the hatch should be repaired so those sleeping there will no longer get a shower when it rains.
Lin comes on Monday, her birthday, so I hope to have it all spick and span and tidy before she gets here.
No pictures this time - nothing interesting to photograph - but here is a picture that Sue took of us under tow last week.

A new sailing year

Andrew (Becky's partner) and I flew out to Athens on 5th April and took the overnight ferry to Leros, arriving in Lakki at 5 am. When we got to the boat there was no way we could sleep because the beds were covered with things so we got the sails, bimini and storm hood out by which time we were well awake, despite two nights with little or no sleep. Steve and Sue were anchored out in Lakki bay, having arrived from Crete on Friday night, a few hours before us. They came over to the yard later in the day and we planned the trip to Marmaris, with them towing us. Steve was very confident that he could tow us without any problems, but I was not so confident, my main concerns being that the rope would break. That night we went out to To Petrino to celebrate our arrival and Andy and I had big fat steaks.
On Sunday the wind blew a full westerly gale and Steve had to put out a second anchor as he bounced around in the seas, which were breaking over the road. Andy and I got the boat ready to launch. In the evening the wind moderated a bit and we walked over to Dmitri's at Vromolithos, where we met up with Sue and Steve who had decided to risk coming ashore.
We were due to launch on Monday, but at 8 O'clock they arrived to tell us that it was too windy to launch, especially as we had no engine. Then at 11 they came back to say we were launching in ten minutes. We frantically sorted everything out for the launch and once in the water warped the boat around to the pontoon next to the slip. The rest of the day was spent shopping and preparing for sea.
Steve proposed that he come into the marina on Tuesday morning and tow us out, though I was not so sure and got the dinghy ready to drive us out with the dinghy. Steve arrived about 10 and we made up a harness with an old mooring rope - I wanted our rope to break rather than his if we put too much strain on the tow.Steve towed us out of the marina without any problems. I was about to take a photo when Andy noticed that the dinghy, that we had absent-mindedly left alongside, had filled up with water and was about to flip over. I frantically signalled to Steve to stop and we bailed out and lifted the dinghy before getting under way again.

 I was still not completely confident about the tow, especially as there was quite a big sea left over from the gale which risked surging which could break the tow line, but Steve proposed that we carry on until we had cleared the passage between Leros and Kalimnos, when we  could check out the wind and the sea state.

Between Leros and Kalymnos

Everything went well and once we had cleared Leros the sea was quite calm and there was  very little wind, so we carried on with the tow, doing about 6.5 knots with the genoas up, arriving to anchor off Kos town at 4 pm.

Approaching Kos town

Anchored off Kos

After going in to town to try to sort out our Wind mobile internet  connections we had dinner together aboard.

Dinner guests arriving

We left Kos at 10 next morning with no wind and a flat sea.

No wind approaching Cnidos

Off Cnidos we saw three dolphins heading for Kos, but they were not interested in us and just went on their way. Once we had rounded the Turkish coast at Knidos the wind got up from the West and we both hoisted our genoas, towing/sailing at 7 up to 8 knots to reach Panormitis on Symi, where we anchored without incident.

Casting off at Panormitis

Coming in to Panormitis

Anchored in Panormitis bay

We left Panormitis at 9.45 next morning for another speedy tow/sail, arriving at Marmaris marina at 4pm,

Approaching Marmaris

End of the voyage - approaching Yat Marin

Marmaris Yat Marin

where a pilot boat guided us into a berth while Sue and Steve went to anchor in the next bay. Overall the tow worked out incredibly well, without any problems, and Steve's seamanship was exemplary. I had not imagined for a minute that we would be able to tow at almost full speed without putting too much strain on the tow lines. Andy drove all the way, apart from a two hour siesta on Wednesday.

Andy driving out of Kos

We were booked to lift out on Friday morning, but hung around waiting all day, going into town with the very helpful agent to clear in and do all the paperwork. We watched the slip for a chance to lift, but late in the afternoon two boats in a row were launched, faffed about and then lifted again, presumably because they had engine problems. About 7 in the evening I went to ask the lift crew what was going on and they said they would lift us in 30 minutes, when a pilot boat would be available. At 8 a pilot boat arrived to say that his boss would not let him take us in because it was too late, but he promised to come for us at 8.30 next morning.
On Saturday morning we were ready at 8, but there was another boat in the slip waiting to lift. The lift crew promised that we would be next and the pilot boat collected us at about 9. The boat that had just lifted had about half an inch of growth on his bottom, which meant that his pressure washing took about an hour.

Serious fouling and a hefty pressure wash

Ready to lift

At last we lifted at 11, only to have to wait another hour for the tractor to take us to our place on the hard.

Tractor at last

Eventually we got there in time for lunch. After tidying up, doing odd jobs and contacting the people who are going to install our gantry and new engine we started to cut up the fuel tank to allow us to get it out through the corridor. After a lot of cutting Andy realised that once the engine was out we would be able to get the tank out in one piece through the engine compartment, which also meant that we could get a full-size replacement, so we stopped cutting. In the evening we went in to Marmaris town to sort out new SIM cards for the mobile and internet and went for an Indian meal with Sue and Steve - the owner of the Taj Mahal is Indian, but the chef is Turkish, but he did not do a bad job. Tired out, we got a taxi back to the marina.
On Sunday Andy got to work cleaning and polishing the hull while Simon did odd jobs - sorting out the water maker, fitting the new FM radio and player and this and that.
The weather had been beautiful, sunny with a light breeze and up to 28 in the cabin, but on Sunday night the weather broke with a thunderstorm and a bit of rain. Now, Monday morning, we have got a more serious thunderstorm and it is a lot cooler, so we can't work outside.

Famous last words!

I ended the last post by saying that nothing interesting would happen. How wrong I was.
We had a lovely two days anchored in a little bay just out of town, clearing up and swimming. On Tuesday we were booked in to Leros marina, our new home. The engine struggled to start, but we got it going, drove out of the bay to empty the holding tank at sea and as we approached the marina on the way back the engine stalled and would not start again. Simon jumped into the dinghy, tied it alongside and towed us slowly into the marina. Fortunately there was very little wind, but still steering was very difficult - with the dinghy alongside Lin could only turn to starboard. We called to say we had no engine, but they directed us to an inside berth on an inside pontoon. It turned out later that they had not heard our call and could not see Simon in the dinghy because he was tied up on the outside. We managed to get to the pontoon and line up for the berth, but the marina people kept calling for lines and changing their mind, by which time we had drifted broadside to the berthed boats. We eventually managed to get into a berth bows too, which makes it very difficult to get on and off.
The next day a mechanic came and said that we had a lot of water in the oil and the likelihood was that the engine was severely damaged, but to work on it properly they would have to take out the engine and it could cost thousands, so they advised us to get a new engine. On balance we have decided that they are right - just a pity that we are not in Marmaris, where it is much cheaper, but Lin does not want to sail to Marmaris without an engine!
On Wednesday we went into town to watch the memorial for the Queen Olga, which was sunk on September 26 1943, along with the British ship Intrepid. In the end there was very little happening. Later in the morning a band marched along the front and then a naval vessel took some dignataries out to lay wreaths over Queen Olga.
On Thursday morning we lifted out. The engine started, but then stalled when we put it into gear and would not start again, so it was a dinghy job again. This time the outboard would not start -probably out of fuel, which we have been running down, but the marina had a dinghy to push us round this time, though they charged us 56 euros for the privilege. Now we are on land packing up and hoping that nothing else will go wrong.
Love to all
Simon and Lin

Back to Lakki

On Sunday night we went to a concert of traditional Naxos music and dancing on the terrace of the Venetian museum (video won't upload).

 

We left Naxos early on Monday 17th for a gentle sail in a light northwesterly wind to Skhinousa, where we arrived in time for lunch.
After lunch we went for a walk, following the instructions in our walks book, which involved breaking in to the 'Valley of the Muses', a grandiose investment project now abandoned, clambering along cliff edges an beaking through fences, till we arrived at a beautiful beach,

where the one German couple on the beach hurriedly put on their knickers when they saw us arriving (there was a big sign forbidding nudism). After a swim we walked back to the harbour, getting a liftup to the Hora from the German couple in their hotel minibus.
We left early next morning for Amorgos and had a gentle sail down to Aegiali, where we got a place on the quay.

 In the afternoon we set off on a walk, using our trusty walks book, but Simon went completely the wrong way and we ended up having a very steep walk up to Lower Potamos. Lin turned back, while Simon climbed up to Upper Potamos and then found some very rough paths back down.
Again we set off early in the morning to sail to Levitha. Off Amorgos there was very little wind and confused seas that set us rolling around. Just as last year we had a problem with the mainsail just off the Northwest tip of Amorgos, but we got it down, sorted it out and set off again.
As we approached Levitha a helicopter took off and flew over us

- it made two more sorties during the afternoon. It turned out that a German company has a contract to construct a wind farm and the helicopter was to carry out the surveys. The family who live on the island are horrified at the prospect. We don't object to a windfarm, but the construction will despoil the last unspolit island in the Aegean.
In the afternoon Lin swam and chilled, while Simon walked over to the hills on the north of the island.

By evening sixteen yachts had arrived - more boats that we had seen in one place since leaving Lakki. The taverna in the farmyard was bursting at the seams.
We left early next morning for Leros, arriving in Lakki at midday, planning to go into the marina on Friday. On Friday morning the engine would not start. We had had trouble starting for the last couple of weeks, but this time it would not start at all. Simon checked the fuel filters, which looked clean, and unburnt fuel was coming out of the exhaust, so we concluded that it was a problem with the glow plugs. Simon took them out and found that two were not working (the two remaining new ones that we had fitted last year). Fortunately we still had two of the old ones and when we fitted them the engine started fine.
When we got into the marina we found that the water pump was not working. That too had been temperamental for the last couple of weeks, but started when bashed. Simon checked the wiring, which was OK, took the pump apart, but could not see anything obviously wrong so now have no hot water, and cold water only from the foot tap in the galley sink.
Now we are in Lakki cleaning and mending and preparing to layup. All too boring for another blog. We take the ferry to Athens on Sunday night and fly to Gatwick on the 3rd and home on October 4th.
 

Off to Naxos

On Sunday in Skhinousa a young Greek couple from Syros came alongside us in a Gibsea 92, the boat we had chartered on our first sailing trip in Greece with Sam and Becky in 1987. They suggested that it might even be the same boat renamed as there are only two of them in Greece. It looked very small next to us!

We had an excellent lunch in taverna Deli looking over the bay below.

On Monday we ran the engine to charge the batteries as usual and after a couple of minutes the engine died. Having ruled out dirty fuel by checking the filter we concluded that we had run out of diesel. Lin had suggested filling up in Lakki, but Simon insisted that we had enough to get to Naxos at least. It had all looked OK, with the gauge on a quarter, but clearly the gauge had stuck. We asked Costas in the taverna where we could get diesel and he replied that we could not get diesel on Skhinousa. So Simon checked the ferry times to Naxos, hoping to take a couple of cans to fill and come back the same day. Costas told us that the ferry stops in Naxos for about three hours, which would give us plenty of time, but warned that we would not be allowed to take fuel on the ferry so we would have to hide it in a bag. What to do? We could not risk sailing to Naxos with no engine, especially in these winds. But then a saviour appeared - an Australian family on a chartered catamaran overheard us and offered us their spare can of diesel - about 20 litres.

We liked Skhinousa very much but it was getting time to leave as soon as the wind allowed.

The forecast on Skhinousa told us every day that tomorrow will be windy but the day after tomorrow will be better, but it then turns out to be worse. The forecast for Tuesday was not too bad, northerly 6 with a bit of 7, so we decided to go for it with two reefs and the third reef rigged just in case. For the first hour we motored as there was no wind at all in the lee of Naxos, but we could see a line of white horses just to the west, which we hit as we rounded the tip of Naxos. We had a windy beat up the channel between Naxos and Paros with winds of 25-30 knots true, a current against us of 1-2 knots and waves over two metres in the channel. Nevertheless we had two reefs, a flat main and a tiny bit of genoa and we made a good 5-6 knots, pointing well, but getting soaked when we hit a nasty wave.

As we got west of Naxos town, on the Paros side, we decided to take in the genoa and motor sail under main only the rest of the way. Simon started to pull in the genoa and the furling line snapped, releasing the genoa so that the whole sail unrolled and flogged violently. Lin tried to keep the boat and the genoa under control while Simon jury-rigged a rolling line and eventually got the genoa in.

As we crossed over to Naxos in increasing winds and seas we got perilously close to the notorious reef, which we could not see until we were a couple of hundred metres off it. Once we had rounded the reef we decided it was time to get the main down - not easy on a bucking deck, with the waves pushing the boat off the wind this way and that, but Lin managed to keep us pretty much on the wind, while Simon got the main down (finding that one of the battens had sprung out of its fitting) and lashed it to the boom - it was not the time to get it into its bag and zip it up. We came into Naxos harbour and found the entrance to the marina, which turned out to be full, but Nikos, the harbour master, was very helpful, getting us to anchor and come back on to the corner of a pontoon.

Once we had settled down and got everything stowed, Simon went to lower the dinghy, to find it half full of water from breaking waves, and floating in it was the top half of the casing of our radar reflector. We realised that the flogging genoa had smashed the radar reflector casing, leaving the reflector dangling from its lower mount. We connected up the electricity, but it tripped. Simon switched everything off and by a process of elimination found that the problem was the immersion heater, which we switched off.

We were tied up next to a very nice Danish couple, who were very helpful. As we were tired and hungry we asked their advice about the best place to eat. We followed their instructions, but could see no sign of their recommended taverna after walking for miles, so we ducked back to a taverna in the old town, where we had a tolerable dinner, went home and collapsed into bed.

Wednesday was the first repairs day. First stop was the immersion heater, so that could get hot water. Simon removed the immersion heater cover to find it full of water, which was bubbling out of the insulation all around. The first thing was to get some stoppers so that we could disconnect the tank from the water supply. Simon tried the chandlers, but the caps would not fit - it looked as though the thread was too wide. The chandlers sent him off to a plumbing supplier on the other side of town, and eventually he found 1" plastic caps to fit the pipes. He got back to the boat to find that the caps were too big (aqbout 30mm), so he had to trudge back to the edge of town to replace them. The shop owner insisted they were 1" caps and that 1" was three centimetres. He produced 25mm brass fittings which were stamped 3/4, so Simon changed his nominal 1" caps for Naxos 3/4" 25mm caps, which, after much manipulation, he managed to get on to the pipes to isolate the tank.

Assuming that the problem was the immersion heater joint, Simon packed it with Leak Fix and declared it sound. Wewalked up to the Kastro in the afternoon, visiting the Venetian museum, a fortified house, making part of the castle wall, that was built by a Venetian invader (supposedly on the Crusade) in 1207 and still inhabited by the same family. The house was fascinating, the exhibits less so (it looked as though they had emptied the junk from their cellar and attic).

When we got back to the boat Simon proudly switched the water back on, and it still came squirting and gurgling out of the insulation on the hot water tank. He had to cut away about a quarter of the insulation to track down the leak, which was on the other side from the immersion heater. Repeated attempts to block the leaks with Leak Fix failed (though the leak is now not so bad) as the water finds its way out under the Leak Fix - probably the surface was not completely dry around the leak so it had not bonded. So now we have to switch the water off when we are not using it and pump out the bilges every day.

Thursday was repairs day 2. But before we began, Simon spent one and a half hours diving to free the propellor of the Danich couple's boat from a tangle of mooring lines - they had dropped the mooring line long before moving off, but it had jammed in their rudder and when the started it twisted round the propellor and picked up a load of other bits of old rope. They gave us two good bottles of wine for our pains - not necessary, we yachters are always ready to help each other.

Having rescued the Danes, Simon removed the old furling line and measured it up for a replacement. We needed a 10mm line (easier on the hands, quite apart from the strength) but the chandlers turned out to have only 8 mm and 12 mm line. 12mm would not fit on the drum, so we had to get 8mm and hope that it holds until we get back to Lakki. We then refitted the batten that had fallen out, with a lot of pulling and pushing,  In the afternoon we went off for a swim to a beach on the causeway leading to the temple of Apollo

- a tiny little cove with deep sand and clear water. Simon disappeared, snorkling over to Grotta beach to see the submerged Cycladic and classical buildings. Mostly it was not possible to tell the difference between ruins and natural rocks, though there were some obviously cut marble blocks. Getting out of the water was treacherous - the flat rocks were covered with sea urchins almost to the sea shore. Simon managed to surf over the rocks without getting spiked and walked back to our cove.In the evening we had an excellent Thai meal at the East West restaurant.

Our friend Gill Frith was arriving on the Thursday night ferry from Athens to start her HF walking holiday. Simon went down to the quay, thinking the ferry came in at 10.40, only to find that on Thursdays it did not come in intil 11.40, so we went to bed without seeing Gill, but left her a message to come for a drink on Friday evening.

On Friday we rented a car for the day to drive around the island and check out the likeliest walking routes. The car hire man gave us a half hour briefing and mapped out a route for us, which turned out to be perfect, taking us round all the main sites and ending up on a beach. We went to the temple of Demeter,

where a walking group emerged from the bushes - not Gill's HF group, but a group on a Ramblers holiday. We also stopped off at Halki, where we had a coffee in the old town, and drove up the valley

and over the ridge to Apeiranthos,

 a Cretan village, where we took in three museums, the best being a higgeldy piggledy archaeological museum with some lovely Cycladic pieces and ancient carvings.

We drove back down another valley, past a modern marble quarry

then went for a walk to look at an ancient quarry and two Kouros, large statues that had been abandoned in the quarry because they were broken.

We got home just in time for a quick shower before Gill arrived for a drink and Mexican dinner.

Gill decided to duck out of her Saturday walk, so she joined us to go to the wonderful archaeological museum, with terrific Mycenean and Cycladic figures and pottery.

 

(Sorry I can't rotate them!)

Although not up to the Cycladic art in the Benares in Athens, it is much more impressive when you know where it comes from and you get a good sense of the longevity and prosperity of Naxos civilisation. After the most expensive beers we have ever drunk (Gill paid), overlooking the marina and Mia Hara,

we had a quick swim in our little cove

and after lunch we walked round to Agios Georgios beach for another swim. The guide books suggested that we would not be able to move for bodies, but in fact there were few people beyond the tavernas and sun beds and it was all remarkably clean. For dinner we went back to East West - three days without Greek food!

We decided to set off back towards Leros on Monday, so Sunday is shopping, cleaning and clearing up. And fixing the radar reflector, which was dangling dangerously loose. Lin winched Simon up the mast,

where it was very windy and where he tied the top end of the reflector,

but we will have to be very careful not to catch the genoa on it and will take it down when it is less windy. He had planned to go to the masthead and remove the anchor light for repair, but it was too windy, so we put that off for another day.

It has got markedly cooler in the last couple of weeks, jumpers or jackets in the evenings, and we have quite a bit of cloud and even a few drops of rain in Naxos.
 

Just the two of us

Simon's treatment went well and he got back to Leros on the ferry at 5am on Thursday morning 30th August to jump into bed with a sleeping Lin, who had a very windy time in Leros. We pottered around for a couple of days, cleaning and tidying, and on Saturday had a windy beat up to Arki (we cheated and motor sailed the last half as the wind got up to 25 knots. On passage the passarel disintegrated, so we had no way to get ashore in Arki, so we anchored in the bay just south of the port - crystal clear water and very sheltered. We stayed there two nights, mending the passarel and swimming, then moved to the harbour for a couple of days more, having some excellent meals at Nikolas's taverna before saying good bye to everyone. On Wedensday 5th September we set off at dawn to sail the fifty miles to Dhonoussa, just East of Naxos. There was a good wind till we got to the southern tip of Patmos, then the wind died for a couple of hours motoring. Anticipating stronger and more westerly winds we worked our way north, which was lucky because when the wind came back there was a lot of west in it and we could only just lay Dhonoussa. The wind increased steadily as we close reached, often at over 8 knots, with two reefs and a patch of genoa. The waves also got bigger and bigger, well over two metres, so the boat got a good wash down. We had planned to go to the anchorage in the north west of Dhonoussa, that Derek had recommended to us, but we could not lay it as the wind increased and went further west, so we decided to head for Ormos Dhendro in the south of the island. As we reached the island the gusts increased to 35 knots and Simon had to work hard on the wheel to keep us on course. The anchorage did not look promising from offshore - a little bay with spray flying everywhere, but things calmed down as we motored in and we anchored off the beach, the only yacht here (or on the whole island), with 55 metres of chain. The beach had a lot of little tents and bivouaks. Simon swam around to check the anchor and swinging room and went ashore to check out the beach. It was clearly a middle-aged hippy beach, with half the people (including many Greeks) naked and a lively bar/taverna at the back.

Even in the bay the wind was 25 knots, but the anchor was well dug in so we were confident we would be OK, but still Simon slept on deck and set the anchor alarm just in case.

The forecast was for calmer weather on Thursday, but then gale force winds from Friday lunchtime, so we decided to find a more sheltered anchorage and headed for Mirsini on Skhinousa, which we found almost empty - just two Greek yachts, so we found a comfortable place on the quay.

We had a delicious lunch at Mersini taverna behind the beach, then relaxed after two days heavy sailing.

On Friday morning we walked up to the hora to do some shopping, passing an emaciated donkey

and the financial district.

The hora is pretty nondescript, having been developed for tourists who fill the island in high season, but who were now conspicuous by their absence, but there were spectacular views to the many beaches around the island.

On Saturday, after shopping, putting extra lines on the boat, swimming, lunch and a siesta, the day flashed by, the wind still very strong and no yachts coming or going.

On Sunday we walked over the hill to the north, to look at the sea state, and walked down to a little chapel on the headland.

 

We could see that the wind was still blowing hard and the forecast is to keep blowing through Monday, so we decided to stay here until Tuesday and then head up to Naxos to explore the island. The local ferries have been cancelled for the last two days. On Saturday a stranded Greek couple were hoping to find a yacht to take them to Naxos and on Sunday a Swimtrek group were brought over from Naxos  a day late crammed onto a yacht. We wouldn't fancy inter-island swimming in these seas, but presumably they will find some sheltered passages.

 

We are very happy to be storm bound here. It is very peaceful on the little quay with friendly Greek and Italian neighbours, sandy beaches and lovely swimming in very clear water, an excellent taverna and reasonable shopping in the hora.